Finding the Perfect Vintage Pattern
I was delighted with finding my perfect dress sewing pattern for the Dressmaker’s Ball, a vintage Butterick 7943 (circa 1956). I discovered this sewing pattern among the many piles and piles of vintage patterns at Vint’illage in Bowling Green, Ohio. After I decided that a Rococo style ballgown with panniers was going to be too much volume to pack for an international trip, I decided my new vision would be inspired by Richard Avedon fashion photos of Dovima and Sunny Harnett. I wanted a svelte, lean, dramatic, and severely chic 1950’s sheath dress with a dramatic contrast element. The cummerbund on this dress is exactly what I mean by dramatic contrast element. The bateau neckline on the dress is fabulously chic, and perfect to balance my figure which features curved hips.
The Quick Preview Video:
Sourcing Inspiration
After purchasing the vintage pattern, I began looking at photos of 1950’s era fashion photography. I came upon the pink on pink, “Rose France” Evening Gala Gown by Christian Dior from 1948. This dress became my obsession and muse.
Let me tell you a few things about myself if you don’t know me personally. I used to drive a pink car in my 20’s. I lived in a pink apartment featured in Vintage Life magazine. My wedding ring is custom designed by my husband to include pink sapphires, and I wore a pink veil on my wedding day. I like pink as much as Elizabeth Arden did. The color pink has a feminine flair and radiates a soft happy ambiance. I fell in love with the idea of a pink on pink evening dress for my Dressmaker’s Ball creation! I ordered Shantung Satin in two pink shades (candy pink and fuchsia) from NewFabricsDaily on Etsy.
Sewing a Muslin Mock Up
This evening dress is a very special sewing project to me. One of the most special I have ever made, because I am making it for a seamstress event, and then flying all the way to Leciester, England to attend. Therefore I wanted to do everything in my ability to make the dress very professional looking and fine tuned. I did something I have to admit, I have never done before. I made a muslin mock up first.
This discipline is when a seamstress creates her dress in a cheap muslin fabric or perhaps an old bed sheet, to practice sewing the garment in it’s entirety first, before sewing the real dress. It also gives the sewist the opportunity to make fitting corrections prior to cutting the expensive dress fabric. I am so glad I chose to do a muslin mock up. When I purchased my pattern it was a size 12, and the hips were stated to be 34″. My hips are 37. My waist is smaller than what the pattern suggested a fit for. So upon trying on my muslin, I use many pins to outline the dress fabric to my figure. I then used a sharpie marker to sketch where the dress should ideally fit on me, basically nipping in the rib-cage and waist. Next I took off the dress, sketched the marks a bit better, then I used my seam ripper to dismantle the dress entirely, including darts. My plan is to then use these muslin pieces as my sewing patterns for the good fabric. I think I will achieve a more accurate fit this way.
I found the bateau neckline folding a little bit tricky, so I am glad I got to practice that and witness how it comes together. It seemed intimidating following the pattern’s instructions, but once I just folded and tacked it the way that made sense to my eye, it all came together. Once the dress is worn on a body, the neckline settles naturally into the drape.
The Longer Detailed Video:
By Adrimar
